Malawi Bloat is the most common disease when keeping African Cichlids. There is some general consensus regarding possible causes, responsible pathogens, and even treatment.
Occurrence
Malawi Bloat does not only affect fishes from Lake Malawi, but also those from Lake Victoria and Lake Tanganyika. The African Cichlids that are most prone to this disease are those whose diet consists primarily of vegetable matter.
Symptoms
The first symptom is a loss of appetite. Secondary characteristics include abnormal swelling of the abdomen (hence the name), increased respiratory rate, reclusiveness, white streaky feces, and sitting on the bottom of the tank or lingering at the surface. Red marks around the fish's anus or skin ulcerations might also be apparent.
Symptoms only appear in the latter stages of the disease; therefore, it is important to begin treatment as soon as symptoms are noticed, otherwise the disease will most likely take the fish's life. By this time, damage to the fish's liver, kidneys, and/or swim bladder has probably occurred. When secondary symptoms appear, death typically follows within 24-72 hours.
Cause
There is nothing absolutely conclusive yet, but many believe that Bloat is induced by a protozoal parasite in most cases. This protozoan resides in the intestines of healthy fishes, but can proliferate to harmful numbers under stressful conditions. As it increases in number, this parasite will cause blockage of the intestinal tract. It moves beyond the intestine by punching holes in its walls - causing the fish to bloat. Fish die from the damage inflicted upon their organs.
Bloat doesn't usually just claim one victim, but three or more.
Three Main Causes For Bloat
1.) Stress. When the fish become stressed, their immune system does not function well. The most common cause of stress is poor water conditions. Possible causes are infrequent water changes, insufficient aeration, and overfeeding; all of which lead to elevated nitrate levels. Other causes of stress include being caught, being transported, water changes, or an insufficient hiding places from other fish.
2.) Salt. Some people add salt to simulate a more natural habitat, but common salt will not alkalinize your tank. If you have soft water and need to raise the pH/hardness, use a buffer, such as SeaChem's Cichlid SaltTM. Crushed coral for substrate or a bit of limestone in your tank will raise the pH, but it's important to do frequent water changes. Using any wood will only lower the pH of your water.
3.) Improper diet. Many herbivorous cichlids have long intestinal tracts, requiring a longer time to digest food. It is quite common to develop intestinal problems. Decomposing foods can irritate the intestinal wall and stress the fish. This can happen about when a herbivorous, (like Tropheus or Pseudotropheus) is fed high protein foods such as bloodworms, or sih meal pellet & flake foods. Slimy/soft foods - such as brine shrimp - should be replaced with crunchier foods such as mysis.
Treatment
Once you notice that your fish has lost its appetite, you should remove it and begin treatment immediately. There are two effective treatments for Bloat: Metronidazole (Emtryl or Flagyl) and Clout. After treatment do a 30% water change, increase aeration, then a 50% water change. Remove any biological filters you may be using. Store the filters in some of the water removed from the tank prior to treatment. Turn off your hood lights while treating your fish, as the dark atmosphere will help your fish to relax and recuperate
In addition to treating with drugs, it is also recommended adding an half-and-half Epsom salt/Table salt mixture to your tank. Add a handful for every ten gallons of water. Epsom salt is a natural laxative and will help the fish lose some of the water it has been taking on.
Fish usually regain appetite within a week. If fish retains its apetite you can administer Metronidazole with its food. When administering this drug, turn off any UV, ozone, or chemical filtration as these disable the active ingredients of the medication. SeaChemTM and AquatronicsTM (called HexamitTM) both sell drugs containing Metronidazole.
Clout - This drug can be very strong, so follow guidelines given with the medication so as not to shock your already stressed fish. Daily water changes are essential for Clout's maximum effectiveness. Three days of treatment should be enough if inflammation is not too severe, otherwise treat for a full five days. If after five days there's no change, resume treatment again after two days. Perform a final water change 24 hours after the last dosage. Clout has proven more effective at curing bloated fish. It will, however, turn the water blue and stain the silicone in your tank (as well as anything else it comes in contact with).
Raising the temperature of the water increases the fish's metabolism and heightens its immune response, and speeds up the life cycle of the parasite, thereby shortening cure time.
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